Konoba crawl: Dalmatian food & wine

Four family-run konobas, the wines nobody exports, and the food I grew up on — pašticada, black risotto, fresh anchovies. My first glass is on me; come with an empty stomach.

This is the evening I'd give a friend visiting Split for the first time. We eat and drink our way through four konobas — the small family taverns that are the real Dalmatian kitchen — well away from the Riva tourist strip. What we'll taste: pršut and Pag cheese to start, then black cuttlefish risotto, slow-cooked pašticada with gnocchi, fresh-off-the-boat anchovies, and something sweet to finish. The wines are the honest local kind — Plavac Mali, a crisp Pošip — that never make it out of the region. Your first glass is on me; after that drinks are pay-as-you-go so you can pace yourself. Kids are welcome at a reduced rate. Tell me about any allergies or dietary needs when you book — I'll call ahead so every stop has something good for you.